Fletcher goes to Costa Rica

Bananas

2010-11-19T15:08:00.000-08:00

I just installed lightbox! Now, you can click on images to see a larger version.

Here's a set of images from my tour of a banana plantation/packing plant. To see all of them, use the link in the previous post.

About the Field Course

2010-11-02T12:50:00.000-07:00

It occurred to me that I may not have adequately explained the structure of this program. The field study course consisted of three blocks. During Block I, students lived and studied in San Jose, taking courses on Spanish and Latin American issues at ICADS headquarters. All ICADS students also went on a trip to Nicaragua during this time. During Block II field course students traveled to different parts of Costa Rica with ICADS staff (David, ecology professor and Kat, program director) learning about local sustainable development-related projects. During Block III, each student chose a location visited in Block II to return to where they worked on an independent self-directed research project. There were also students in an internship program who participated in Block I but during Blocks II and III were placed in internships around the country. I really enjoyed traveling with a group of students but I am envious of how much their Spanish improved from being immersed for so long.

More Photos

2010-10-28T14:57:00.000-07:00

Volcan Masaya

So, I didn't keep up with this blog. But I plan on updating it with information about the trip, even though its been over for months. In the meantime, I've finally uploaded pictures from each part of the trip. I put them on facebook, but you should be able to see them even if you don't have an account using these links:

La Carpio

2010-03-21T22:23:00.000-07:00

In addition to classes at ICADS, we also had a few day long field trips during block I. For the first, we went to an organic coffee farm. The second, we visited an agroforestry system. The day trip that I will remember the most is the one we took to La Carpio, a marginlized community (more or less a ghetto) outside of San Jose with a large proportion of Nicaraguan immigrants. Nicaraguan immigrants are seen by some Costa Ricans in a negative light in the same way Mexicans are seen by some in the United States. They are often accused of bringing with them violence, gangs, and other social problems. In some immigrant communities, police will not even respond to calls, contributing to problems that are, for the most part, blown out of proportion by the media.

The road to La Carpio is a thin causeway, with cliffs on both sides from what appeared to be pit mines. This is a place where there are gravel streets and improvised homes built with whatever materials can be found. Right across the river is the site of San Jose's dump, the only location the government could find that wouldn't create public outcry.

Photo of La Carpio found here.

Here, small groups of students were assigned to interview various people in the community about their experience as an immigrant. I can't forget the woman we talked to. Her tragic story exemplified the thesis (which we were examining) that immigration is motivated by a complicated mix of circumstances, with economic factors being only part of the equation.

This woman fled Nicaragua not only to escape poverty, but to escape horrible abuse inflicted upon her by her father. A drunk, he was physically abusive to both his wife and daughters. The woman showed us scars where he had burned her, and broke into tears as she told us that at times, the emotional pain had been so bad that she wanted to die. The situation was made worse by the fact that her mother refused to abandon him, supporting him financially and enabling his alcoholism. Eventually she fled, and left without the support of her family had to make it on her own. She told us how she and a friend had crossed the border through wilderness, running because they thought they were being chased by a tiger. She made her way to San Jose, where she was able to find work cleaning houses, get married and have children. She said she feels lucky now, to be alive and have a means to support her family. For a while she sent remittances to her mother and sisters, but stopped when she learned that the money was still going to her father. Although the physical and emotional scars remain, she is no longer suicidal, something she attributes to God.

Nicaragua

2010-03-20T20:00:00.000-07:00

(2/14-2/20)

This picture was taken from the bus as we passed through the narrow strip of land between the Pacific and the lago de Nicaragua. The volcano is on an island in the middle of the lake.

Our first night (monday) we stayed in an inn in the capital city of Managua. The following day we took a tour of the city. We visited a group of former banana plantations workers who live in a shanty town in the park as a protest against the health problems they developed due to pesticide use. That afternoon, we drove to Matagalpa, a small city in the north. There we split up, some staying with host families in the city and others with families in San Ramon, a nearby town. I was in the latter group. While I liked San Ramon, I didn't have the best experience with my host family there. Others actually bonded with their families, but mine seemed disinterested in me and we didn't really talk.

On Tuesday we visited UCASAN, an agricultural/tourism project of a local indigenous community. Wednesday we had two lectures, one on the communal movement in Nicaragua and the other on the Nicaraguan perspective of migration to Costa Rica. Afterwards, most of the group went to the Castillo de Cacao, a museum/chocolate factory where they roast, grind by hand, and process chocolate from cacao. The resulting product is very dark and rich because they do not add milk.

Thursday morning we went to Chaguitillo, where we saw some petroglyphs and a museum of pre-columbian art. We also heard a talk about the community group that is supporting these sites. In the afternoon we traveled to Masaya Volcano, which had the most amazing scenery of any place on this trip.

We spent the last two nights in Granada, an old city with beautiful colonial architecture. Our hotel there, the Oasis, was really nice. It had a common area with hammocks, a garden/atrium, a pool, and a rooftop terrace. On Friday we visited La Casa de la Mujer, a government sponsored womens organization. We went through the central market, where I got a cheap hammock. That night we had a talk with some members of an opposition party about some of the problems with the current political scene. On Saturday we made our return trip to Costa Rica.

There is one aspect of our trip to Nicaragua that all who were there will not soon forget: the ordeal of crossing the border. For all intents and purposes, there is only one point to legally cross between these two countries. Due to the sheer volume of people, understaffing, and corrupt officials, it can take hours to get a simple stamp on your passport. The line curls backs and forth in front of, and then around, the immigration building. On our way in it didn't take too long, but to leave Nicaragua we had to wait about four hours in the hot sun.

This is the giant Nicaraguan flag in Managua

Tico Time

2010-03-03T18:04:00.000-08:00

Many sources of information for travelers will note the relaxed attidude that Costa Ricans (who refer to themselves as ticos) have in regard to punctuality. This is something I have found to be mostly true, not only here, but in Guatemala as well. It is ironic, then, that ICADS keeps us on such a rigorous schedule.

My house is sort of far from ICADS, about a 30 minute walk. During the week I wake up around 6:45, eat breakfast, get ready and meet the other students in my neighborhood around 7:20 to go to class. We get there with enough time to get a cup of coffee, and then we have Spanish class from 8 to noon. After an hour for lunch, there are usually one or two hour-long lectures on the topic of the previous nights reading, and the rest of the time is used for activities specific to the two different programs (field course and internships).

It's usually past 5:30 when I get home. At that point, my fifth or sixth cup of coffee has worn off, and I am fairly tired. I rest before eating dinner, and later struggle to stay awake through the readings and Spanish homework. Often, I fall asleep before 11. I think this is the busiest I have been since high school. That said, I am enjoying most of it, and I'm happy to be here.

Photos

2010-02-11T13:05:00.000-08:00

(here)

First Impressions

2010-02-11T11:48:00.000-08:00

(1/31/10)

Well, I made it to San Jose despite my plane out of Boston being frozen. They kept us waiting at the gate for almost an hour and told us they might deboard the plane. Right after they made that announcement they said "we're ready to go" which was a little disconcerting. I guess the water lines defrosted but the way they said it made it seem like they decided it wasn't all that important if they were still frozen.

When I got to San Jose it was sunny and hot (in the 80s) but the breeze made it feel cooler. It was cloudy, but the clouds here are beautiful, not like the flat gray stuff that blankets Massachusetts. The city lies in a valley beneath an active volcano that is partially shrouded. From what little I have seen so far, I quite like the city. It isn't what some people might consider beautiful; there's little uniformity in the structures but they form a sort of patchwork thats fascinating to look at. One feature that is common is an embossed diamond pattern found on many of the metal gates in this area.

Yesterday I met my host family, Damaris and Edgar Sanchez who share the house with their daughter Marcela, her husband Luis, their son Saul, and new baby Amanda (all of whom live in an attached apartment on the second floor). We watched a show on tv (which they have four of, including a little tiny one in my room) resembling a rodeo, but with a bunch of other people in the ring. I learned that elections are coming soon. Apparently, in Costa Rica, this is cause for celebration. I talked with them some about general things like my interests. I have been able to communicate somewhat effectively, definitely better than when I went to Guatemala. I think the spanish immersion course was helpful, despite not being totally immersive.

This morning (Sunday) I went to a farmers market with my host family. There were tons of vegetable and fruit stands, as well as some selling meats, seafood and cheeses. As we were going through the market, I spotted a group of Americans (I think from North Carolina- one had a shirt that said raleigh international) who stopped to look at some bootleg dvds layed out on the ground. It was funny seeing dvd guy trying to sell them his movies. I thought it would have made a good picture but I decided not to take one. They would have noticed because I was right next to them.

This afternoon, I accompanied all the male members of my extended family to a futbol game. I was the only person in our group (and one of a minority in the stadium) not dressed in purple, which is the color of the local team, Saprissa. We sat in the lefthand side what I guess is the economy section, concrete bleachers overlooking the length of the field. A ways over from us, in an area delineated with purple banners, there was a section for the truly devoted fans. Their constant chanting, drumming and horn-blowing made them seem like an improvised, unruly marching band. At times they would all jump up and down in unison, causing the entire structure to wiggle.

The game was fairly slow for the first half, with several almost-goals. Soon after halftime (or whatever its called in soccer) the home team scored a goal. Towards the end of the game, many people began to leave, apparently confident in the games favorable outcome. Sure enough, Saprissa scored another goal just minutes after the stands began emptying, sealing their win against San Carlos.

I'm in Costa Rica Now

2010-02-10T10:16:00.000-08:00

I'll try to update this soon.

I'm Not in Costa Rica Yet

2009-11-12T13:12:00.000-08:00